Flourless Chocolate Cake

Instructions

1. 1

   Heat the oven and line the pan

   Set a rack in the middle of the oven and heat it to 350°F. Butter the bottom and sides of an 8-inch springform pan, press a parchment round into the bottom, and butter that too. This cake has almost no structure of its own while it's warm, so a generously lined pan is the difference between a clean release and a patch job.

2. 2

   Melt the chocolate and butter

   Combine the chopped chocolate and cubed butter in a medium heatproof bowl set over an inch of barely simmering water, or microwave in 20-second bursts. Stir gently until the mixture is smooth and glossy, then lift it off the heat. Don't let it get hot enough to feel warm on your wrist — overheated chocolate turns grainy and can break.

3. 3

   Build the chocolate base

   Sift the cocoa powder directly into the warm chocolate to catch any lumps, then whisk in the espresso powder, fine sea salt, and vanilla. The mixture will thicken noticeably and look like a soft frosting. Set it aside to cool for about five minutes, until it's warm rather than hot.

4. 4

   Whip the eggs and sugar

   In a separate large bowl, beat the eggs and granulated sugar on medium-high speed for 4 to 5 minutes, until the mixture is pale, thickened, and falls off the beaters in a wide ribbon that sits on the surface for a second or two before sinking. All of this cake's lift comes from the air you're beating in right now, so don't cut the time short.

5. 5

   Fold the two together

   Scrape about a third of the egg mixture into the chocolate and whisk it in briskly — this first addition is a sacrifice, meant only to loosen the base. Add the rest in two batches, folding with a flexible spatula: cut down the center, sweep along the bottom, and turn the bowl a quarter turn. Stop the moment the last pale streaks disappear.

6. 6

   Bake until the center barely wobbles

   Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for 28 to 32 minutes. The cake is ready when the edges look set and slightly puffed, the top has a thin matte crust that may crack a little, and the center still jiggles like soft custard when you nudge the pan. An instant-read thermometer in the middle should register about 165°F. Err on the early side — it firms up a lot as it cools.

7. 7

   Cool completely

   Cool the cake in its pan on a rack for 20 minutes, then run a thin knife around the edge and release the springform collar. The surface will sink in the middle as it cools, which is exactly what should happen. Let it cool completely, at least 2 hours, before glazing — a warm cake will drink the ganache instead of wearing it.

8. 8

   Make the ganache

   Put the finely chopped chocolate and the tablespoon of butter in a small bowl. Heat the cream until it steams and shows bubbles around the edge, then pour it over and let it sit undisturbed for 3 minutes. Stir slowly from the center outward until the ganache pulls together into a smooth, shiny pool. Let it thicken for 5 minutes.

9. 9

   Glaze and serve

   Invert the cake onto a serving plate so the flat bottom becomes the top, peel off the parchment, and pour the ganache into the center. Nudge it outward with an offset spatula and let it spill a little over the edge. Scatter the flaky salt over the top and let the glaze set for 30 minutes. Slice with a hot, dry knife, wiping the blade between cuts.

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Baker's Tips

• 1.

  Buy chocolate you'd happily eat on its own — with this short an ingredient list, there's nowhere for a waxy, dull bar to hide. Bars chop more evenly than chips, which contain stabilizers that resist melting.

• 2.

  Room-temperature eggs whip to far greater volume than cold ones. If yours are straight from the fridge, sit them in warm tap water for 10 minutes first.

• 3.

  If your chocolate base and egg foam are at very different temperatures, the batter can seize or deflate. Both should feel roughly lukewarm when you combine them.

• 4.

  For an even silkier, more custard-like crumb, wrap the springform in a double layer of foil and bake it in a roasting pan with an inch of boiling water, extending the time to 35 to 40 minutes.

• 5.

  The flavor deepens overnight. If you can, bake it a day ahead, refrigerate it unglazed, then bring it to room temperature and glaze before serving.

• 6.

  Skip the ganache if you'd rather: a dusting of cocoa or powdered sugar and a pile of raspberries or softly whipped cream is just as good, and lighter.

Equipment

• 8-inch springform pan
• Parchment paper
• Heatproof mixing bowl
• Small saucepan or double boiler
• Electric hand mixer or stand mixer
• Flexible rubber spatula
• Fine-mesh sieve
• Instant-read thermometer
• Offset spatula

Storage